Cin Cin! Drinking Pink Italian Style

There is a libation for every season and for our summer sipping at Canal House, we like to have a bounty of chilled rosé. We wait with bated breath for the “Rosés Have Arrived” display to go up in the window at our local wine shop, and then we stock up. This summer we've gone Italian so we must call it rosato, but by any name it is summer drinking perfection.

It's no secret that the French—in Provence, and Tavel in particular—rule the rosé scene. At many wine shops there are five French rosés to every one Italian rosato. Why? Traditionally, Italian winemakers simply have not been in the business of making rosato. Rosé is sometimes made by a method called saignée. Early in the fermentation process, when red wine is still grape juice fermenting with the skins and the must, winemakers “bleed” out some pink juice from the vats in order to concentrate and intensify the color of the remaining juice. The pink bleed-off is then fermented on its own and sold as rosé. Many of the Italian grape varietals are already dark in color, so the saignée method to darken red wine is a much rarer practice in Italy.

In recent years, as rosé has become summer's “it” wine, winemakers in every country have begun to make more and more rosé for the sake of rosé, and not only as a by-product. And while Italy has increased its rosato production in the last decade, esteemed wine importer Neal Rosenthal of Rosenthal Wine Merchant says that Italian winemakers are steeped in the traditions of their region. They seem to be “quite comfortable with their choices for hot weather wine,” he says, “without having the compulsion to douse themselves in rosé.”

There may be fewer Italian rosatos than there are French rosés, but upon tasting the choices below, we are equally happy to refresh ourselves with either all summer long. Luckily, Bruce Neyers, sales manager for Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, and one of the most knowledgeable guys we know, says that we're drinking in a peak year for rosatos. “The 2010 rosatos are fabulous,” he says. “It was almost a year scripted for rosato, in fact, nearly perfect weather for balance and color."

We asked Bruce Neyers, and a few other experts for their rosato recommendations. From the top of the boot in the cool climate of the Alto Adige, down the Ligurian coast to sun-soaked Sicily, we found delicious rosatos for drinking pink Italiano style.

BRUCE NEYERS, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA

Punta Crena, Frizzante “Pettirosso” Rosato, Liguria, 2010
50% Sangiovese, 50% Rossese; The grapes grow high on hills that overlook the Ligurian coast where winemaking has been the Ruffino family business for more than 500 years. It tastes like Italy in a bottle. With its soft coral color and slight fizziness, it has a savory flavor that reminds us of a delicious tomato sauce—tart and acidic, vegetal and herby but with citrus fruit too. Really a fascinating bottle.

Sesti, Rosato, Tuscany, 2010
100% Sangiovese; The Sesti family began making this rosato because the family wanted something cooling to drink under the hot Tuscan sun. Now they produce about 400 cases, 100 of which come to the United States. It's soft and slightly effervescent with many layers of flavor. On the surface it is fresh and crisp, but underneath it has chewy fruit like dried apricots.

DARRELL CORTI, Corti Brothers, Sacramento, CA

Corte Gardoni, Bardolino Chiaretto, Veneto, 2010
50% Corvina, 30% Rondinella, 20% other grapes; The Piccoli family have vineyards planted among fruit orchards and olive trees. They make balsamic vinegar and olive oil, and began producing their own wine in 1971. Light pink, soft and with a nose full of peaches, it is exactly what you want from a rosato. Dreamy, perfumed, and perfectly balanced. It is one of only two rosati currently sold at Corti Brothers.

Proprietà Sperino, Rosa del Rosa, Piedmont, 2010
85% Nebbiolo, 10% Vespolina, 5% Croatina; Paolo De Marchi started making wine at his family's historic estate, the Castle of Lessona in via Sperino, where this rosato was born. First sip is like biting into a luscious piece of juicy, ripe fruit. It is tart with berries, fresh with citrus, and has good acidity for drinking with food.

LEVI DALTON, Sommelier, Bar Boulud, New York City

Montenidoli, Canaiuolo, Tuscany, 2010
100% Canaiuolo; This organic winery, in the hills north of Siena, sits on land that has been planted with vines since the time of the Crusades. Montenidoli means “mountain of little nests” and refers to the chirping European Jays that are native to the area. This rosato has a beautiful, pale copper color and a distinct flavor of licorice on the finish. Its red fruit is subtle and its acidity is bright. It could almost be a white wine on taste alone.

Castello di Ama, Rosato, Tuscany, 2010
90% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot; This rosato has a red cherry color and gets its full body from Chianti Classico grapes. It is earthy and mushroomy and one of the biggest rosatos we tasted, but dry and drinkable too. It has substance at an excellent price.

JAMIE WOLFF, Chambers Street Wines, New York City

Fonterenza, Rosato, Tuscany, 2009
100% Sangiovese; Made by two dedicated sisters, Margherita and Francesca Padovani, who do all of the organic farming by hand.We were struck by the minerality of this wine. It smells like rocks in a cool stream and tastes like red berries.

Heinrich Mayr Nüsserhof, Lagrein Kretzer, Alto Adige, 2009
100% Lagrein; From the Bolzano Valley Basin, a warm sunny spot in the cool northern climate. The Nusser family has made wine from vines on this property since 1788. With a lovely fuchsia color, this wine tastes like raspberry jam, sour cherries, and strawberries. It has a nice long finish and is a bit peppery at the end.

NEAL ROSENTHAL, Rosenthal Wine Merchant

Bisson, Ciliegiolo, Rosé Golfo del Tigullio, Liguria, 2010
100% Ciliegiolo; From the Italian Rivieria, these grapes grow high on cliffs above the Ligurian coastline. Neal Rosenthal says he struggles to call this wine a rosé because of its intense bright fuchsia-red color, but it feels like a rosé through and through. It smells like delicious ripe cherries and has a lovely silkiness with no sharp edges. It is pretty and dry with good minerality.

CANAL HOUSE COOKING

Cantele, Negroamaro Rosato, Salento, 2010
100% Negroamaro; The Cantele family moved from northern Italy in the 1950s to make wine in Salento, the heel of the Italian boot, known as the “land of sun.” Deliciously drinkable. It's great for easy afternoon sipping.

Tasca d'Almerita, Regaleali Le Rose, Sicily, 2010
100% Nerello Mascalese; From the massive Tasca d'Almerita estate known for its wines and its cooking school. This lovely rosato has a bright fresh quality.